Taking a trip out to visit the Temples at Abydos and Dendara in Egypt is a must for
anyone visiting the Luxor region. It is
a
little more difficult than heading out to the others, except maybe Abu Simbel,
but the trip is well worth it, especially after seeing Abydos.
To get
to
the two temples, you need to take a taxi, mini-van or tour bus at the designated
times. If you want to see both, the convoy leaves at 10 am. Or you can leave
at 2 pm to see only Dendara. But I strongly recommend catching the morning
convoy and seeing them both. The
reason
you
must
leave
at
the
designated
times
only
is
because
all
tourists going out to this region are required to have a military escort, for
your protection of course. The day we had originally planned to see the two
temples, we arrived late to the convoy and were told that we would have to
wait until
the next day. After telling them that we really wanted to see the temples that
day (only because we wanted to see if any other options were available), we
were told that we could go talk to the police and ask them if we could get
a private
escort. So, out of curiosity, we were off to see them. Luckily, the tourist
police station is right next to the Tourist office so we did not have to go
very far. If you would like to read about our experience asking the luxor
police for
a private escort, I have added it at the bottom of this page for you. Ok, back
to Abydos.
Although the Temple of Seti I at Abydos has many many interesting features
about it, there were three things in particular that struck my attention (as
a non-Egyptologist type person) the most; first the
colors
that
still remain in many of the reliefs, which according to the
Rough Guide to Egypt are amongst the finest of the New Kingdom;
second
the
master
list
of pharaohs called the Gallery of the Kings, which is shown in the video, has
been immensely valuable to archeologists, and depicts Seti showing his son
Ramses where he comes from; and lastly, but definitely not least, is the Osireion,
shown
in
four of the pictures below, which has been the focus of much contention in
the past. The ancient Egyptians believed this is where the first land arouse
from
chaos after the dawn of Creation. Although some believe it was added to the
temple later, many believe
that it
existed
long before the temple and question how such huge granite rocks, comparable
to those
used in the great pyramid got there. Unfortunately, there is not much left
there now, but you can get a sense of how important a place this once was from
the pictures
and video. I should mention that tour groups did not go out here and when we
ventured out we were immediately followed by armed guards and could easily
see at least 5 other guards around watching our every move. While there I only
saw
about three other people visit this area. For some reason, it is not widely
visited.
The Temple of Hathor at Dendara
After visiting the Temple of Seti I at Abydos, we were on our
way to see the Temple of Hathor at Dendara.
I was actually pretty beat
by this point
so my picture
taking
was
at a
minimum,
however, I was very disappointed at what remained of this temple. Not due to
erosion or other natural factors, but of mere destruction from rival religious
groups. Although this temple is one of the only ones to boast a roof
that
is still
intact, the
faces
are carved out practically everywhere and there is not must left in terms of
reliefs as you can see from the final picture below.
Asking the Luxor Police for a Private Escort to Abydos
We walked in the door of the police station and were immediately greeted by a couple that appeared
to be arguing (although I think this is just the way they communicate). They
asked us how they could help and we told them that we really wanted to go out
to see Abydos and Dendara today but that we missed the convoy and were wondering
if there were any other options. They told us that we could hire a private
police escort but would have to get approval from their chief of police. So, we were
escorted by a police officer up to see the chief. This was one of
the most interesting experiences I had on the trip as well. As we entered the
police station, cop after cop were looking at us wondering what was going on.
We just smiled, said hello, and kept following our guide. We finally arrived
to the chief of police's office and everyone was at attention. We were told
to enter his office and have a seat. It was a very weird situation to say the
least. There were three or four police officers in the room, all standing at
attention, and there was the chief of police, sitting behind his desk, smoking
his cigarette, listening to someone on the telephone as he repeatedly looked
us up and down. He hung up the phone and our guide asked us to follow him again.
That was it. Not a word to us from the chief. As we started walking out of
the office, Corey asked me what just
happened. "I don't know," I said as I continued to follow the guide. "I'm
sure
we'll find out soon." We were escorted back to the original office we had
entered and were told to have a seat. The officer who originally spoke with us,
got off the telephone and started by apologizing for the chief saying that he
does not
speak any English. "No problem," we simultaneously replied as he continued
to say that the cost for a police escort out to Abydos would be 2000 Egyptian
pounds (About $350 US). We didn't have to think about it for even a second as
we both immediately replied "No, thank you," as we got up to leave.
Aside from our "Thank you for your time," there were no further exchanges
of words or gestures as we walked out of the door. After getting a safe distance away, we started to relax and began talking to each other
again. That was quite an experience. Something most tourist don't usually go
through. And although we did not go through with the offer, it was fun to go
through the process. Needless to say, we immediately began planning for our journey
out to
Abydos and Dendara the next day with the convoy.